Eat
This is a produce region before it is a restaurant region: Catalan sausage from the village butcher, olive oil from the mill across the street, Collioure anchovies, fish landed at Port-Vendres, Leucate oysters. Here is what we buy, where we eat, and what you should not miss.
The local produce
Olive oil: Le Moulin du Llevant
Literally across the street from the villa (44 bis avenue des Baléares): family-run organic mill, local varieties, gold medals, free tours. And keep exploring, the Albères are full of mills.
Catalan sausage: Boucherie Salvi
Didier Salvi, world champion of Catalan sausage, the village butcher for over 20 years. Also: Catalan lamb and prize-winning beef raised in the mountain pastures.
Almonds: La Maison de l'Amande (Laroque)
The Llense family farms 7 hectares of organic almond trees on the heights of Laroque, neither irrigated nor treated: they are the trees you see from the road on the way to the retail park. Fresh and in-shell almonds, ground almonds, 100% almond butter, cold-pressed virgin oil, nougatines. Avenue des Mas Catalans, pick-your-own in September and by appointment the rest of the year.
Charcuterie: Boucherie Casenove (Saint-Génis)
Three generations of butchers on rue de l'Église. Admire the abbey's Romanesque portal on your way back with the shopping.
La Ferme Xadi (Palau-del-Vidre)
Family free-range pig farm on the D618, artisanal additive-free charcuterie, farm shop and visits possible.
Bread: Maison Castro
Le Fournil des Albères, the village's essential bakery and pâtisserie. Morning coffee possible.
Fruit and vegetables
The grower's stand at the Argelès road roundabout, and in season the stall in front of Castro. Table grapes from Domaine Causadias (94 avenue des Baléares) in season.
Fish
The independent fishmonger at the Carrefour des Albères, the fishermen of Argelès and Port-Vendres, and Les Poissonneries de la Côte Catalane at the Port-Vendres fish auction, at the end of the quay (with an oyster bar).
Leucate oysters (40 min)
Some twenty oyster shacks at the Grau de Leucate: tastings straight from the producer, facing the lagoon. A must.
The markets
Laroque-des-Albères
Wednesday mornings on the village square. Small and local, the everyday one.
Céret (20 min)
Saturday mornings. Huge, under the century-old plane trees, one of the finest in the department.
Collioure (15 min)
Sunday mornings, superb. Parking is tricky, come early.
Where we love to eat in the village
Côté Saisons
A Michelin Bib Gourmand for 12 years running, excellent value. The village's reference table, avenue de la Côte Vermeille.
Le Catalan
The go-to spot on place de la République, at the foot of the church: fresh Catalan cooking, great value (closed in winter).
Le Refuge du Clocher
A superb 19th-century mansion in the heart of the old village, tiered terraces, seasonal cooking.
Le Café des Artistes
The village pub: Guinness on tap, a fine beer selection and a British Isles atmosphere.
And when we go out
Les Clos de Paulilles (Port-Vendres, 30 min)
The Cazes family restaurant in the vineyards, facing the Paulilles beach. Not to be missed.
Collioure (15 min)
La Casa Rico and its rooftop with bell-tower view, Le Neptune above the bay, tapas at Chez Simone on the Boramar. And an early morning coffee looking out to sea.
Banyuls (30 min)
Le Jardin de Saint-Sébastien (the Clos Saint Sebastien's restaurant, wines at cellar prices) and the seafront esplanade with its many restaurants.
Hostal Empúries (L'Escala, 1 h)
The hotel's restaurant, practically on the Portitxol beach, next to the Empúries ruins.
Le Bout du Monde (Cerbère, 45 min)
Feet in the water in the Peyrefite cove, right at the start of the marine reserve's underwater trail. Perfect after snorkeling.
Book your stay
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