Spain

The border is 15 minutes from the villa, and the other side is not really another country: it is the same mountain range carrying on, the same Catalan language, the same village names. But different food, different beaches and different prices. We go for the day without thinking twice.

The Costa Brava (about 1 h)

Sa Tuna and Aiguablava (Begur)

Two of the Costa Brava's most beautiful coves, turquoise water and former fishing villages. Leave early, the car parks fill fast.

Palafrugell

And its coves: Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc, Tamariu.

L'Escala

Beaches, anchovies, and the Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries right by the water.

Cadaqués

Dalí's whitewashed village, magical, but beware of the summer crowds.

Sa Tuna, a handful of fishermen's houses at the head of a Costa Brava cove
Sa Tuna: a handful of fishermen's houses packed into the head of the cove, and nothing else.
The turquoise water of the Aiguablava cove near Begur
Aiguablava, literally blue water in Catalan.

Girona (1 h)

The old town

One of the best-preserved medieval cities in Catalonia: ramparts you can walk, narrow streets, colored houses along the Onyar. A full day fits easily inside the historic center.

The cathedral

Reached by a staircase of 96 steps, famous since it served as a Game of Thrones location. Inside, the widest Gothic nave in the world.

The Call

The 13th-century Jewish quarter, one of the best preserved in the world: a maze of lanes, stairways and courtyards.

Eating Spanish

Jamón

Serrano for everyday, ibérico de bellota for the good days: free-range pigs fed on acorns, cured for two to three years. The price difference is real, and so is the difference in taste.

Pan con tomate

The recipe fits in one line: stale bread, a clove of garlic rubbed over it, half a tomato crushed into the crumb, a drizzle of olive oil, pepper. That is all. And it is better with yesterday's bread than with fresh, which is convenient.

Olive oil

Considerably cheaper than in France, but it is not the same product: different varieties (Andalusian picual dominates), different volumes, different methods. Read the label, "aceite de oliva" is not "virgen extra". For comparison, the mill is across the street from the villa.

La Jonquera and Le Perthus

La Jonquera

The compulsory stop for the lorry drivers of the AP-7, and unapologetic border trade: coaches pull in for five-litre bottles of whisky and cigarettes at half price. But it is also where you find everything the French side lacks for cooking Spanish: the spices, the tinned goods, the charcuterie, the paella rice. On that count, it really is worth the trip.

La Maison del Jamón (La Jonquera)

The address to remember once you are there: a delicatessen on the Carretera Nacional II selling Iberian charcuterie straight from the producer, from entry-level serrano to bellota, plus wines and olive oil.

Le Perthus

That strange village cut in two by the border, French on one pavement and Spanish on the other, permanently packed. It is also where the D71 starts, the small road that climbs into the Albères up to the Col de l'Ouillat and its refuge.

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